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Dump bodies, hoists and hardware sold separately from the truck. Rebuild the truck you've got instead of buying a whole new one.
Showing 5 of 5 Dump Beds
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Buyer's guide
A worn-out bed on a good chassis is not a reason to replace the whole truck. If the engine, transmission and rears are solid and you know the maintenance history, putting a fresh bed on it is almost always cheaper than buying somebody else's unknown truck. We sell beds pulled from units we've parted out and beds bought outright — with the hoist, or without it if you're keeping yours.
Steel takes the hit. If you're loading rock, rip-rap, broken concrete or demo debris, or if an operator is dropping material from height, buy steel and accept the weight. Aluminum saves roughly 1,500 to 2,500 pounds depending on size, and every pound of that becomes payload — which is the right trade on sand, base, topsoil and asphalt where you hit your weight limit before you fill the box. Look at the floor thickness on any used bed and check whether it's been patched, because patches tell you what the bed has been through.
Bed length has to work with your wheelbase and your cab-to-axle measurement, and bed height has to work with the loader that's filling it. Capacity is where buyers get it wrong: a 16-foot bed that holds 16 cubic yards is fine for topsoil but will put you over legal weight long before it's full of wet base or rock. Figure your load by weight, not by volume, then pick the box. Send us your chassis specs and what you're hauling and we'll tell you what size makes sense.
Whether it's a scissor hoist, a telescopic cylinder or a straight underbody ram, the hoist decides whether this purchase is a good deal or a headache. We cycle every hoist we sell and note its condition in the listing. What matters: the cylinder holds without drifting, the seals are dry, the pins and bushings aren't worn oval, and the mounting points on the subframe are sound and not cracked or previously welded. A hoist with a leaking packing is a normal repair. A cracked hoist mount is a fabrication job.
The bed sits on a subframe, and the subframe carries the load into the truck's frame rails. Cracked crossmembers, old repair welds at the hinge points and elongated pivot pin holes are the things that turn a cheap bed into an expensive one. When we know a bed has been repaired, it's in the listing with photos of the repair.
A bed is only as good as the parts hanging off it. Every listing states whether the tailgate, air cylinder, latches, hinge pins, tarp system and light kit are included, and what condition they're in. Missing pieces aren't necessarily a problem — they're just a line item you should know about before you agree on a price. Ask and we'll photograph any part you want to see up close.
Swapping a bed means pulling the old body, setting the new one, mounting the hoist, tying into the hydraulics and re-plumbing the truck. {{INSTALL_POLICY}} Call before you buy so we can confirm the bed fits your chassis.
Call and somebody who's walked around the unit picks up. Want a photo of the frame rail, the tank saddle, or the hour meter? Ask and we'll go shoot it.
Calling about a specific unit? Have the stock number handy.